Scotland – Part I, the Highlands

When Adri was planning her visit she threw out some ideas about where the two of us could take a mini-trip. When I went to Scotland last year with my parents we didn’t make it up into the highlands and so when Adri suggested that I jumped on it.  

We got an afternoon flight out of London on Sunday, which was nice because we could take our time getting to the airport.  We flew to Inverness, picked up our rental car, and had a couple hours of daylight to explore the Culloden Battlefield.  We were even lucky to have some sunshine.  

The Battle of Culloden took place in 1746 between the Jacobites and the government.  It was part of the Jacobite rising, an attempt to overthrow the House of Hanover and make “Bonnie Prince Charlie” the king.  The history is interesting, you can read about it here, but it was essentially the end of the Scottish clan system. 
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There were monuments for each of the clans, erected in 1881.

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The Memorial Cairn

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The Leanach cottage predates the war, and survived the battle.

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Shadow shot at dusk, my favorite time of day.

After we left the battlefield we made the most of our final few minutes of daylight by taking a walk in the woods on our way back into Inverness.  Adri said it reminded her of Utah and it reminded me of Island Park.  
Once it was dark we drove back to Inverness and ate dinner in a cozy pub, classic British comfort food, with sticky toffee pudding for dessert.  Then we checked out the Inverness Castle, walked along the River Ness, and popped into a cathedral to do a little Sunday worship.  I didn’t take any photos because I’m a terrible nighttime photographer, but it was all really pretty.  I borrowed a few from online…
We made our way to our Bed & Breakfast. (Sadly we wanted to get an early start on Monday so we missed the Scottish breakfast part.) It was such a tight squeeze getting the car into the parking lot behind the B&B that I convinved Adri we could just walk to the nearest Tesco to get some things for breakfast.  It wasn’t too far…

We were up and gone before sunrise on Monday.  We drove southwest and crossed the bridge to the Isle of Skye, but I’ll save that for a separate post.  

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The sun just peeking up over Loch Ness, and no sign of any mysterious monster…

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This water, I just have no words.

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Just before crossing the bridge to the Isle of Skye, we passed the Eilean Donan Castle. The sun was shining directly on it and there were photographers all over the place rushing to set up tripods and catch the shot. Obviously I didn’t get it in time…

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This might be my favorite picture I’ve ever taken.

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Adri crossed the bridge to explore the castle (which may or may not have been legal…) and said she loved it.

Halloween 2015

Last year on Halloween we were traveling so the kids completely missed out, and I didn’t want to do that to them again this year. (Although none of them ever said a word about it.) Adri & Charlie were here so we decided to do some trick-or-treating in St. John’s Wood, in northwest London, where a lot of Americans live.  

A lot of wealthy Americans I might add.  

It’s a really nice neighborhood, and it was the most American interaction I’ve had during our whole time in London.  There were even basketball hoops in driveways.  Driveways!  And some of them were handing out actual American Halloween candy.  (Halloween candy here is a total let-down.) One woman said her husband had bought bags and bags when he was in the states on business.  Mmm mini Snickers and Nerds and Laffy Taffy…

Earlier in the day Richard had taken the older boys to the Tower of London and Adri and I just killed time with the littles.  I put baby powder in Mim’s hair to make it look more white for her Elsa costume.  (Handmade by my amazing seamstress mother.)  

We met back up at London Bridge, the boys changed into their costumes, and we took the tube up to St. John’s Wood.  When we got there it was still light outside (around 4:30) and pleasantly warm and not crowded at all.  

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Fireman Simon

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Pharaoh Eli

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Ninja Charlie

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Elsa Mim

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Football (Soccer) Player Cameron

It was completely delightful when we first started out.  We talked to the expat families.  We had the sidewalk to ourselves.  We nibbled on candy.  Then as soon as it got dark, like ants pouring from a burning log came the children…
It got so crowded so fast, it was hard to keep track of who was where and there were so many kids and parents that the people in their houses handing out candy never had to close their door.  

We persevered for a little while but the kids burned out pretty quickly once the darkness and crowds came.  Things got scarier for Simon and Mim’s feet were hurting.  The older kids didn’t offer any resistance when we decided to call it a night.  

We took the train home, ordered Nando’s take-away and ate candy.  It was still a British Halloween success.  

Adri & Charlie in London

**I made two New Year’s Resolutions.  Get caught up on my blog by the end of January.  And practice being more present.  I went for both extremes, a really specific goal and a really vague goal. 
Adri and Charlie’s flight came in on Monday morning, the week the kids were off of school for half-term.  We did the same thing we do with all our jet-lagged guests on their first day, and walked up to Greenwich Park.  It was a gorgeous fall day and the kids played football while Adri and I made sisterly conversation under the vibrant chestnut trees.  
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Standing in opposite hemispheres along the Prime Meridian at the Royal Observatory.

We spent a couple hours in the park and then popped into the Maritime Museum for a bit before the children started to get hangry.   It’s a short walk to Goddard’s Pie & Mash and we filled our bellies with cobbler and custard for dessert.  
We came up with a pretty good system for the rest of the week.  Adri and I would take all the kids out in the morning, hit a museum or some landmarks, and then I’d take the kids home (or at least the littles) and Adri would be home-free to explore London on her own.  Just a few places we hit…
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The National Gallery at Trafalgar Square. From here we walked to Covent Garden to see a few more buskers.

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Neal’s Yard

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It became my mission to make Charlie smile for a picture, but I was mostly unsuccessful.

On Day Two we also went to Sports Direct so the boys could look at every football kit for every team in England and around Europe.  After that we had fish and chips at the Golden Union and then visited Hamley’s before calling it a day.  
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Museum of Natural History

The Museum of Natural History is a popular children’s museum and since it was half-term it was crowded.  We had to wait in a rainy queue to get in, but we did get to see the dinosaurs and the animal collection.  And the kids had a mini “where babies come from” lesson in the Biology exhibit.  Then it was crepes for lunch at the Kensington Creperie after which Adri took the older boys to Kensington Park.  
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Big Ben at Houses of Parliament

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The kids in front of the Abraham Lincoln Statue at Parliament Square.

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Cameron pontificating to Charlie about British history. Or the Premier League…

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Picnic lunch at St. James’s Park

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St. James’s Park in October. October and April are competing for my favorite month in London.

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Buckingham Palace

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Charlie in front of one of the famously ornate lifts from Selfridges, that were usually occupied by pretty ladies. (For all the fans of Mr. Selfridge out there.)

Finally when Saturday rolled around and we could leave the kids with Richard, Adri and I went to Borough Market, then Portobello Market, then back to Borough Market again before meeting up with the rest of the gang at the Tower of London.  Richard took the older boys through the Tower and Adri and I took the littles to the South Bank to kill time before Halloween Festivities.  (Which I’ll save for a separate post.) 
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Cameron’s one request when Charlie came to visit was that they get chicken wings and chips from a shop on the way home from school.

The last thing that must be documented was Charlie’s three day experience at school.  Adri and I planned a trip to Scotland while she was here, and there was a day that the kids would be back in school while we were away.  Originally Richard was going to work from home and keep an eye on Charlie, but then I had the idea to ask the Headmaster if he could come to school with Cameron.  She was really accommodating and said that Charlie was welcome to come as long as he wanted to.  I talked to Cameron’s teacher and she was on board, and it was all arranged.  He had such a good time that he went the next day (while Adri and I spent some more time in the city) and the next day after that, even when given the option to visit Oxford with Adri.  When I went to pick up the kids from school on Wednesday everyone was saying good-bye to Charlie, he was the American celebrity.  

I’m sad that WIll didn’t get to come, but I’m so grateful that Charlie had this chance, and that WIll staying in Vegas meant Adri and Charlie could have an extra-long visit.  

Happy New Year – Reflections on 2015

I meant to get this up as a Christmas greeting, but alas that did not happen.  This Christmas break has been the most relaxed and unscheduled break I think I’ve ever had in my adult life.  We stay in our pajamas a lot, we watch movies at night and we sleep late in the mornings.  We go out when we are restless and we stay in when we’re lazy.  It’s been positively wonderful. 

That’s not to say that we haven’t missed the excitement of extended family Christmases of years past, or the excitement of traveling that we experienced last year.  We missed our families fiercely this year.  Tears were shed.  But we’ve made the best of our isolation, and it’s been quality family time.  (And a LOT of messes.  Spending so much time at home can be disastrous to order and cleanliness.) 

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I have no idea what Richard was doing behind my back as I took this picture, but I guess it was pretty funny…

I asked the kids to each write a little bit about their year, what 2015 was like for them.  A year is a long time for a kid to recall, so take that into consideration as you read. (You can also tell they were copying each other’s ideas…) And lest we be hypocrites, Richard and I also reflected on our year. 

In their words.
Simon – 
I loved it when it was my birthday.  I liked playing with my friends at school.  Sports day at school was really hard because I was in Nursery. I was sad this year when I was a little bit missing my mom at school sometimes.  I was really happy when I went on a trip to see the firemen at the school.  My favorite trip was to the Canary Islands because I loved the sand dunes. 

Mim – 
This year I loved going to the Canary Islands and playing in the water.  When I acksudently [sic] dropped the harmonica on Eli’s eye that made me upset.  The most important time of all is when I listen, be kind, help people, be nice and do the right thing.  At school I loved playing with Eseosa, Isabella and the other girls.  My favorite place to go in the summer time was the playground at Greenwich Park where I played in the big sand pit.  

Eli –  
My favorite memore of 2015 was when I saw the parrots.  This is because my favorite animal is a parrot.  My favorite animal is a parrot because parrots can talk and can fly and are very smart.  There are two things that I thought were very tough this year.  The first thing was the Christmas colouring.  The second thing was sports day.  Christmas colouring was hard because colouring in the lines was hard.  Sports day was had because my legs were not as long as everyone else’s.  The happiest time was when it was my birthday because I got presents and we had a fun time. 

Cameron – 
2015 was an exciting but difficult year for me.  It was the year that marked a decade from the year of my birth.  I finished Year 5 and started Year 6 which was a happy but sad thing because I had to leave my old teachers and begin with new ones.  My favourite vacation of the year was “The European Tour”.  I loved the Eurocamps and I made friends from Essex; AJ and Dana, (nick-named Minion Boy) who I will always remember.  The hardest part of 2015 was seeing family members have to end their visit. Especially Charlie.  The most annoying part of the year was when I had to spend my whole birthday in a car.  

Jo – 
I suppose it could be said at the end of every year, but this year seemed to stretch me to my limits.  The travel was definitely the highlight of my year, visiting new cities and countries never stops enchanting me.  Experiencing just about every form of transport; airplane, train, gondola, tram, subway, bus, funicular, car, boat, bicycle gives just a sampling of the adventures I enjoyed (and endured).  I feel grateful for new relationships, strengthened relationships, and relationships that barely hang on. This pregnancy brought with it emotional upheaval I’ve never before experienced, and that has increased my compassion and empathy for the emotionally fragile.  I’ve faced loneliness and homesickness that seemed to incapacitate me.  And then I’ve had moments of joy and contentment that were equally overwhelming.  Looking back and pondering over the year’s struggles, I still can’t help but feel profoundly grateful for all God has done for me in my life, and for all this world has to offer in the form of delicious foods, remarkable scenery and best of all, wonderful, wonderful people.  

Richard – 
The year 2015 was our only full year in London, so making the most of it was one of our top priorities. One of the things that made it possible to do this was that my job was very flexible. Not only was I able to work a standard 35 hours per week during much of the year, but I was also able to use my payroll to purchase an extra week of vacation time, giving me six in total. And, as we’re prone to do, we burned all six weeks! There are two things I will remember most about 2015. First, of course, our many travels. We travelled through so much of Europe that I often have to stop and think carefully about all the places we’ve been or I forget about them. And it was all great (since the memory of all of the stress, weariness, and family fighting fade easily over time). Second, but at least as valuable as the first, would be the many wonderful people we’ve been able to associate with here. There have been so many eye opening experiences and conversations, all of which have had a significant impact on making me who I am. It wouldn’t be overly dramatic to say that 2015 has been one of the landmark years of my life.

We hope your Christmas season has been merry and bright, with minimal stress and drama and maximum love and relaxation.  And we wish you all a Happy New Year! 

South Downs National Park 

Once we had a car again in October, we decided to have a day out of the city.  It’s impossible to choose somewhere to go in England, it feels like the whole country is bursting with scenery and history, but we picked something south of the city, since it’s so much easier for us to get to.  I saw South Downs National Park on a map and then did a little Googling to get more info.  The forecast called for a rainy day so I figured if it was too inclement we could just enjoy a nice drive from the warmth of the car.  

Saturday morning on our way out of the city we made a stop at Sainsbury’s for some picnic food and I discovered Tomberries.   The cashier told me that her grandchildren eat them like candy, and they were a huge hit with my kids as well.  Some farmer in the U.S. needs to get his hands on this cultivar…

Our first stop was the Seven Sisters cliffs, they are a lot like the White Cliffs of Dover, but not quite as high.  We walked out to them, walked along the beach and let the kids run in the hills.  It was windy and cloudy, and a bit chilly if you stood still long enough.  But the views were lovely.  

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The sun peeking through the clouds along the southern coast of England, overlooking the English Channel.

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The kids filled their pockets with chalky white rocks and broken seashells. You can see white chalk on the front of Simon’s jacket, from carrying around the big white stones.

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Inland view, with the River Cuckmere in the distance.

We walked back to the car and found a grassy place for a picnic.  There were no toilets anywhere around so I took Mim in the bushes.  She cried because she said she got stung by stinging nettle on her backside, and I didn’t believe her.  I got my comeuppance when I took my own turn in the bushes… Sometimes its just so much easier to be a boy. 
**Cameron curled up in the fetal position when I tried to take his picture.
After lunch we drove to Devil’s Dyke where we took a long hike and got lost.  

The hike started out in a pretty green valley, then wound its way through a forest/wood, then across another green valley and into a village.  It was in the village we asked for directions back to Devil’s Dyke Peak, and so we cut across a sheep pasture and climbed back up the side of the valley.  It took a couple hours, and it was really pretty, but it was more than I had bargained for and we were all tired! 

I didn’t take my camera with me sadly, because I was worried about it getting wet if it rained, but I did snap a couple pictures with Richard’s phone.  

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The fall colors in the skyline were really pretty, even on such a gloomy day.

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Farmland and pastures are public property in the UK, in the sense that there are countryside paths all over that are available to the public to walk on. You can legally cut your way through anyone’s fields, just close the gates behind you! It’s awesome.

Once we got back to the car we were all spent, so we finished off our snacks on the two hour drive back home.  It was a really fun day, and I wish we did these things more often.  

What is Happening?

On Wednesday mornings my kids’ school serves tea and coffee to parents, while hosting a forum for discussion and communication with school administrators.  Sometimes there are specific topics to address or guest speakers are invited, other mornings we just sit and chat.  On one such morning a year ago I was chatting with some friends, including my friend Fatiha.  She is French Algerian, bright, extroverted and a fiercely loyal wife, mother and friend.  She also happens to be Muslim.  She was my first friend in London (outside of church).  On the morning of Miriam’s Reception Induction when I arrived to the school late, terrified and in tears from the trauma of my first driving experience, she was the first person I met.  She spent the morning with me, showing me around the school and helping me get the information I needed.

During this particular “Coffee Morning”, as they are called, Fatiha was telling me that she had shared with her sister that she had a Mormon friend.  She said that her sister responded by saying “Your Mormon friend moved to London? And her husband lets her out of the house?”  I laughed out loud, I couldn’t help myself.  Neither Fatiha or I were quite sure what her sister’s preconceived ideas about Mormons were, so neither of us really knew what to say next. But it broke the ice for a conversation about religion, and I nervously shared some of my own ideas about Muslims.  Fatiha laughed off some of the stereotypes I shared, but I could see another friend of mine was a little more frustrated, understandably.  It must be discouraging and exhausting to carry the burden of prejudice, stereotype and misunderstanding.  Mormons know this burden.  Every time a news story breaks about a polygamous sect in the U.S. doing something appalling or disturbing, and the journalist uses the word “Mormon” we throw up our arms in frustration.  “That’s not us.  That’s not what we believe.”

My Muslim friends are some of the people I relate to most in my community.  They understand me.  They understand the way my faith guides my decision making, my parenting, my every day choices.  They are thoughtful, kind, and principled people.  They are involved with the school and generous with their time toward their children.  They are disciplined, brave and yet also really humble. 

When I read in the news the fear-based accusations thrown toward Muslims back in the U.S. it gives me an uneasy feeling in my gut.  All of us, while pondering the Holocaust for the first, second or 100th time have tried to reconcile in our minds how an entire country could be turned against a race and religion. How did that happen?  I’m not sure, but I know that it began with fear, it began with leaders blaming an entire religion/race for problems that did not fall on the individuals who made up that race/religion.  Then, that fear of “those” people was turned into a hatred for “those” people. 

This morning after reading about Donald Trump’s latest assault against Muslims, I was torn between rage and sadness.  While spreading Nutella on crumpets for my kids’ breakfast I asked them what they thought about it.  Cameron’s immediate response was “That’s ridiculous.” 

WHY?!” I hurled at my poor, unsuspecting 10 year old, misdirecting my anger but really wanting him to understand this.

“Because all the Muslims I know are kind.  Because they aren’t terrorists.  Because that’s not what they believe.” 

Three out of my four children have had a Muslim teacher while at their school, either this year or last.  All four of them have Muslim friends in their classes.  They know terrorism exists, they know it’s scary, they know that it is sometimes perpetrated by people claiming an Islamic faith.  But they don’t feel any fear from the Muslims they know.  None.

To be completely honest I feel ridiculous writing this post.  I feel ridiculous because if any of my Muslim friends read it, I’m ashamed that I have to say it.  But I feel like I DO need to say it.  I’m willing to acknowledge that my own ignorance allowed me to believe false ideas about a religion I hardly knew of.  And if I hadn’t moved here, and lived in a community with a lot of Muslims, and made friends with them, I would still be in ignorance.  I never thought that all Muslims were hateful or violent, but I wish I could say that I knew what wonderful people they are without having to know them.  So take my word for it.  Don’t buy into the fear.  Be wary of stereotypes and generalizations; doubt them, question them.  Be informed. 

I WANT Muslims in my country.  I want them in my life.  I want them around me.  But even if I didn’t, I could at least respect that my country was founded on ideals of equality, acceptance, tolerance, open-mindedness and religious freedom.  And although I find Donald Trump’s comments to be shocking and disturbing, I’m also concerned that his attitudes will make less extreme, more subtle forms of anti-Muslim sentiment seem reasonable or acceptable.  

This morning while Richard was taking a train to Birmingham we were texting about this and he said something I really appreciated.

                “There is this irrational fear that terrorists will destroy our way of life, and so we destroy our way of life, and the things that make our country great, trying to protect ourselves.  [And that is how] they win.”  

Lori & Sean’s Visit 

I was really excited for Lori and Sean to come visit.  I’ve mentioned this before, but sharing/showing our life here with our family is really fun for me.  And I knew that Lori would love it, I knew she would love everything, and I was so excited to be there and watch her love it.  There are some things sisters share, and there are things about London that I knew Lori would appreciate the way I do, and I was just aching for that solidarity.  
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Trafalgar Square

They flew in on a Sunday morning and we didn’t have a car so we couldn’t go pick them up.  I didn’t want to make them tackle public transport with all their luggage and no previous experience so we sent a car for them, and Richard waited at the house for their arrival.  (I was playing the piano at church.)  When Lori walked in after Sacrament meeting I was so excited.  How many times have I said how excited I was?! 

After church we did the same thing we do on the first day with all our visitors, a walk to Greenwich Park.  We had a picnic and let the kids play and then it was early bedtime for the jet-lagged that night.  

I can’t recall the chronology of the the events thereafter, but we walked as much of the city as we could, ate at as many of our favorite restaurants as we could, attempted a “Dessert Crawl” for Sean’s birthday, and stayed up late having good conversations.  It was just as wonderful having them as I hoped it would be, and I’m sure if they didn’t have kids and jobs and all that other stuff, they could have stayed twice as long and still not done everything we wanted to.  It was also really fun for our kids to have Lori and Sean’s undivided attention, and Lori and Sean were so generous with their attention and affection.  

A smattering of photos:

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Big Ben from Westminster Bridge

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Westminster Abbey (We did a tour, which I had never done before, and it was really interesting.)

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Boris Bikes in Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens

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Shopping used books on the Southbank.

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Tower Bridge & The Queen’s Walk

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The Tower of London

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This guard takes his responsibility very seriously…

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This one not so much…

During the week that they were here, the kids were in school so i was able to go into the city with Lori & Sean every day.  That was such a treat!  Then I’d come home in afternoon to pick up the kids and Lori and Sean could continue exploring.  They also spent a day in Oxford and on Saturday we all met up at the Tower of London.  The Tower is a London must-see and so we’ve been there several times, but we did an audio guide this time which is always informative and interesting.  

After Lori and Sean left I slipped into quite a lonely funk, for which I had a brief reprieve when Adri and Charlie came, but then I went back into my cave (read: bed) for a few more weeks.  I’m going to attribute it mostly to pregnancy hormones, but it is the reason for my months of hiatus from blogging and other social media.  Hopefully now that I’m feeling myself again I can get caught up!

Our Charlotte

A few days after our return from our European tour we discovered this spider in the back window that looks out to the garden.  Fortunately she was spinning her web on the outside of the window so we just let her be.  In fact, we watched her spin her web and it was really something amazing.  It reminded me of this quote by E.B. White (author of Charlotte’s Web.) 

“Once you begin watching spiders, you haven’t time for much else.” 

Eli and I stood transfixed for several minutes, watching the spider meticulously but efficiently spin her web in this perfect pattern that was one of the most beautiful feats of nature I have personally observed.  I’ve never felt affection or attachment to a spider before, but I did after watching this one.  She lived in that window for months, and she probably spun a new web every week or so.  When I was lucky enough to catch her doing it, I would stop whatever I was doing and just enjoy the show.  It was really something.  

Then one day in November I noticed she was gone.  I was quite sad about it, after watching her endure weeks of rain and wind, and even sometimes watching her catch and wrap her prey.  I’m still not comfortable with spiders cohabiting with me, but I’ll miss our Charlotte.  

The First Day of School

** I really wish I hadn’t gotten so far behind in blogging.  I wish I had written these posts when the experiences were fresher in my mind.  
It wasn’t until the end of the school year last year that I had any real idea of how nervous Cameron had been to start school at Lucas Vale.  And I know some of those nerves returned to him at the beginning of the school term this year as well.  I think he was the most reluctant to go back to school, I don’t think he has the same social needs and pleasures that Mim and Simon do, nor does he have the close friends like Eli does.  But I know him well enough to know that even if only on a sub-conscious level, he loves schedules and routines and predictability, and for those reasons I know he appreciated back to school.  
I think Eli was pretty indifferent to school, he was excited to spend time with his friends again, but also schedules and routines are not his cup of tea, so I think he could take it or leave it. 
Miriam had mixed feelings too, an excitement about seeing old friends and teachers, but a reluctance to do the “work” of school.  She does love social situations, but is also easily tired, and those days can be long for a five year old.  
Simon was definitely the most excited.  He was beginning Reception which is all day school, at the “big” school. He did two half-days for transition and then midway through the week he was on the same schedule as all the other kids.  
One of the great things about their school is that the children stay in the same classes all the way up.  So they were with the same group of kids as last year, and they automatically knew everyone.  I can’t remember if it was like this back in Kuna, but the teachers seem to know all the kids as well, so it makes for an easier first few days.  

Day 15: Geneva 

Saturday was the last full day of our epic roadtrip.  Our flight left early Sunday morning out of Geneva, so we had a day to get to Geneva, sleep at a hotel by the airport, and then we were on our way home.  Saturday morning the kids were sorry to say goodbye to their friends and the Eurocamp, but I think we were all ready to wrap it up.  

We took the long way to Geneva, and drove south around Lake Geneva, through France.  We drove past the Chillon Castle, which was a sight to behold,  even just from the road.  Then we stopped in a well-maintained medieval French village, Yvoire, per the suggestion of Adri.  It was charming, and Eli had one request in France. Crepes.  So crepes for lunch it was, and I went all out on behalf of my pregnant self, and ordered a sweet AND savoury crepe.  

We didn’t really have it in us to hit it hard touring Geneva, so it was nice to soak up the scenery from the car.  We checked into our hotel in the late afternoon, and I put cartoons on for the kids so I could take a nap while Richard returned our beloved VW to the car rental at the airport.  

We went into Geneva for dinner, and I really wanted to have something nice.  It took awhile but eventually we found a place and enjoyed some tasty Swiss food.  We strolled along the lake and had one last ice cream stop.  It was a gorgeous day/evening and the perfect way to end our European adventures.  

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Geneva is a really beautiful city.

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Jet d’eau

Goodbye dear mainland! Au revoir! Arrivederci! Auf Wiedersehen! Sbohem!